We found the docks, but before we could locate the terminal entrance the local
"hustlers/touts" surrounded us, asking if we were heading to Manaus. We parked
the bikes, and while Erin stayed with them, I went inside to see what I could find out
about the boats. More people approached, wanting to be my agent and arrange the trip for
us. I politely ignored them, and tried to make my way through the growing throngs of
"agents". As it was a holiday, all the little ticket booths were closed
and I was forced to start asking the people surrounding me for help.
I was eventually let through the port gate (without a ticket), to board the boat docked
there and talk with the captain. This is not an open barge, nor is it a large luxury
liner. These boats are referred to as "Gaiolas" or "Bird
Cages" that transport the native population and cargo to the small cities and
villages. All passengers sleep in hammocks, and some of the larger boats have a few
cabins.
The larger boats are about 100 long and about 15 wide. There are 3 decks
above the cargo hold: Lower for additional cargo (and our motos); middle for sleeping
(mostly hammocks and some cabins); and the upper has a small bar and large open deck with
outdoor showers to bask in the sun. The boat was set to sail around 7pm, and already there
were some 35 hammocks nestled together like sardines. The captain offered us hammock-space
for 150 reas each (250pp cabins were occupied), and 200 per bike this totaled 700
reals, or about US$206. The trip is 5 days, covers some 1,700kms, and includes 3 basic
meals per day.
We were not planning or prepared to leave immediately, as we needed time to do laundry
and buy some supplies for the trip. We could travel hammock-class, but that would mean
sleeping in extremely close proximity to dozens of other people with all the associated
noises and annoyances that implies. There is also a security issue, along with exposing
ourselves to the swarms of mosquitoes. The cabins are tiny (although not more so than
other nicer boats we've been on), but have air-conditioning and a door we can lock our
stuff behind.
The Tuesday boat (Santarem) was undoubtedly the newest and nicest, and the Monday boat
(Djard Vieira) was the oldest and one of the last wood boats making this length of
trip. We talked with 4 different agents, and got 5 different answers. We had been in email
contact with one agent several months before. Earlier in the week, they booked a
cabin (a/c & bathroom) on the Santarem - Price was 260 reais/person and 200/bike, and
we had until last Tuesday to purchase. Another agent told us the Santarem would not take
the motorbikes, but any of the Monday, Weds, Thurs, or Friday boats would. He would hold a
reservation on the Djard (220/p & 150/bike), and we could pay the day the boat
leaves. The first agent had assured us the bikes could go on the Santarem, but we had to
purchase the ticket immediately or lose the cabin. He also offered us the Djard for
240/p & 180/bike. He was very good about email communication, and we didn't feel he
was being dishonest, just that his prices were higher and there was a serious conflict in
information. We had been 2 days away from Belem at the time, and told him to let the
Santarem reservation go. In Belem we met another agent who said the cabin aboard the
Djard had a/c, but no toilet, and was the worst boat of the lot.
Speaking to yet another agent confirmed the Santarem would not take the bikes, but it
was the best boat. He told us the Djard did not have a/c, so we should take
the Wednesday boat at 220/p and 150/bike. The final agent told us the Djard had
cabins with attached bathroom, and same price. Ugggghhhh!
Saturday, Nov 16th: We woke up rested but still confused this whole
boat trip was getting more complicated by the minute, and we cant seem to get a
straight answer anywhere. We did not want to wait in Belem another week, as each extra day
takes away from our time in Venezuela we need to be in Panama for Xmas. We wanted
to travel on the Santarem on Tuesday, but not sure if it was an option. The Djard
left when we needed, but not sure under what conditions (everyone agreed it was the
"worst"). People were saying best and worst of the bunch, so we were not
even sure what difference it would make if we waited for other boats later in the
week. The heat was a serious concern for us, and although we were sure we could
survive the trip, we wanted to enjoy it if possible, not just suffer through it.
After breakfast, we visited 3 of the agents offices, and received more
conflicting information. We decided to return to the terminal to see if any offices were
open and hopefully get some better info. One of the agents we spoke to yesterday was
there, and he got us on to the Djard Vieira, which had arrived the night before. The
boat looked the same as yesterdays steel boat, maybe even better. It looked freshly
painted and quite clean. The steel boats are supposedly more secure, but they looked
the same to us. We met the 1st-mate, who gave us a full tour of the boat, along
with cabin #6 which was available. It was a 4x6 box, with bunk beds, no
window, a new a/c unit, and key to a private bathroom at the back of the boat. Price was
200 reais/person & 150/bike (700 reais or US$206). We got a receipt and did not have
to pay until we showed up with the bikes on Monday morning. We were ecstatic as we now
possessed solid info, and what appeared to be a good boat. We would land in Manaus
Saturday night, then a 2-day ride north to the border. We returned to the coolness of our
air conditioned hotel room, arranged covertly (the hotels charge exhorbinent rates) for
one of the housekeepers to do our laundry at her house, and made general preparations for
our departure on Monday.
Monday, Nov 18th: Called the office of the Santarem at 8am just to be sure
no cabins left, and they will not take the bikes anyway. We packed up our gear and
rode down to the docks around 11am the river was high and we could easily load the
bikes onto the lower deck. Although we were cleanly showered, we were sweating before the
work was even started. We met the balance of the crew, and all were extremely friendly.
They told us the boat would arrive on Sunday morning, not Saturday night as all the agents
had told us! We met Maria, a nice woman in charge of the meals. When I asked her if the
food was muito boa (very good), she looked at me and said that it was very basic, but
tasted OK (honest) a flash of fear crossed her face and she hesitantly asked if we
were vegetarians. We assured her we could and would eat just about anything. She told us
breakfast would be crackers (I think), butter, coffee, and hot chocolate. Lunch and dinner
would be typical and basic: rice, pasta, beans, and some kind of meat nothing
fancy. We made a last dash to get some final supplies (water, cookies, fruit), showered
once more, grabbed an early dinner, and were back on the boat by 6pm for the 6:30
departure of course, we didnt actually leave until almost 8pm! As we relaxed
on the upper deck, sipping beers and finally relaxing we met 2 very fascinating
people-----Father Freddie, a German Franciscan monk and Jorge, a Venezuelan film maker
both of whom sat down to have a chat with us. It was a pleasant beginning to the
long trip ahead of us.
Tuesday, Nov 19th: Mariana came around the boat at 6am blowing a whistle
breakfast time! We went below and sure enough, breakfast was no more or no less
then stated fortunately the crackers were fresh, the drinks good, and we
supplemented with a few bananas.
Our first day on the river was spent navigating the various tributaries on our way to
the great Rio Amazonas. It was not dangerous or exotic, but it was tranquil and
interesting. We slung our hammocks on the top deck, under an awning, and alternated
between watching the scenery and napping. As the day stretched out, we passed a variety of
other boats and encountered innumerable canoes when the river narrowed. Most of the canoes
would loiter near where we passed, with woman and small (sometimes-naked) children waiting
for passengers to throw them food, clothing, and other charitable items. It was
fascinating at first, then as the numbers increased, it became overwhelming there
were just so many of them, and the passengers quickly ran out of offerings. The woman and
children appear to spend their days sitting in canoes, just in front of their stilted
shacks, and wait for handouts from the passing boats. It was sad to see so much
poverty.
Later in the day, some of the canoes with older kids were crafty enough to latch onto
the side of our boat as we chugged past at a steady 15km/h. As we watched in fascination,
the 10-15 year old children would hold out a 2 meter rod with hook on the end, catch a
part of the railing, then expertly pull themselves alongside and tie the canoes up. The
captain never slowed, and the crew neither helped nor hindered their efforts. These kids
brought fruit or vegetables aboard, in the hopes of selling or trading with the
passengers. Although we were heading upstream the trip back wasnt too bad for them.
One pair, though, spent too much time on board and was a good few kilometers from home. A
barge passing down-river encouraged them to untie their canoe quickly, dive into the
water, scramble after their canoe, pull themselves in, then paddle some 150 meters to the
next passing barge going down river. Im not sure if they were that good at it, or if
the other captain slowed and turned a little towards them, but they barely caught the end
of the barge for a tow back home. Dinner was at 5:30pm, followed by an evening playing
checkers, dominoes, and backgammon. There are some 60 people onboard, and we all seem to
be getting along quite well.
During the next 5 days, a routine settled in -- We managed to wake before the 6am
breakfast whistle and watch the sun lift up over the stern like a giant orange balloon. We
take care of the morning rituals and head down to the dining table, located behind the
open cargo on the lower deck. The older folks and families with children eat during the
"first shift", and the rest of us come down about 20 minutes later. There are 2
long benches on either side of the table, and the crew is quick to put clean dishes and
utensils out before the previous occupants have even dislodged themselves from the bench.
Crackers and hot chocolate are not that bad a breakfast, especially when fortified with a
few bananas we bring along.
After breakfast we hike to the top deck and flop into our hammocks for some relaxing
swaying and reading, while enjoying the cool morning breeze. It is not long before we are
asleep. The morning hours pass as we wake with heavy eyelids, beginning to break a sweat
with the increasing heat, take in the view, and try to finish that same paragraph/page of
reading before slipping back into unconsciousness. By 10-11am, we are more awake and watch
life on the shores drift by. The views alternate between small cattle farms, dense trees
(with monkeys and Toucans), mangroves, loads of fresh water dolphins, and small villages.
The river is filled with various sizes and types of boats and barges, while dolphins can
be spotted throughout the day. By 11:15am, Mariana is blowing her whistle and
telling us it is last call for lunch. We finish by 11:30, as the crew is rapidly clearing
each plate away in preparation for there own meal. We eat dinner around 5:15pm, and the
crew around 5:30 I think the kitchen crew prefer all the meals are finished before
the 5:45 sunset. Lunch and dinner are quick because they are relatively basic, and always
the same. There is soup, rice, pasta, baked beans, and some sort of cooked meat. You can
eat as much as you like, and they provide plenty of cold drinking water, but 15 minutes is
really plenty of time to fill your stomach and make room for the next person.
Each day, we make a few stops at various size villages. Some stops are only 10 minutes
to allow a change of passengers; others can be 4-5 hours, as large amounts of cargo are
transferred. The small docks become very animated when we pull in next to the dozens of
smaller boats, even when we arrive at 11pm for a 1-hour stop. Local vendors jump
aboard the boat selling everything from cheese and pastries to fruit and homemade ice
cream. Watching the transfer of cargo can be very interesting, if you are into
people watching.
The days are spent talking, reading, and watching life on the river banks slip by.
After dinner, we tend to gather on the top deck, have a beer or 2 as the sun falls slowly
in front of us, turning the sky spectacular shades of orange and purple. As the night
progresses, so do the games of checkers, cards, and dominoes. There is also a TV behind
the bar, with a satellite mounted above the roof the dish must constantly be
adjusted using a clever rope/pulley system, in order to maintain the signal with any of
the 3 channels we can receive. Weve been blessed with a near full moon every night,
so gazing out to the river can be quite charming as well.
The beds are actually better then we expected, and leaving the a/c on its lowest
setting at night provides a comfortable sleeping environment. Throughout our journey, the
boat has been surprisingly clean, and the crew very attentive. Our trip along the Rio
Amazonas was not the exotic adventure we imagined it would be when we first came up with
this plan back in February. It is, however, a very interesting journey meeting all sorts
of people and experiencing life along the river. If you are looking for a very relaxing
experience, don't mind very basic facilities, and enjoy meeting friendly locals (not those
whose lives depend on tourism), we would highly recommend this trip. We really
enjoyed it!