Tuesday, June 4th: After a good nights
sleep, we all met for breakfast and talked about the previous days events,
especially about what happened to Kfir. At lunch that day we dined outside in the sunshine
on the plaza. There we met 3 Dutch guys, one (Charlie) riding a Honda XL600. Charlie
intended to take his bike out on the tour like we had done. We swapped stories (he having
traveled down through Central America) and we gave him some advice about riding through
the expansive and wild terrain we had just experienced.
Wednesday, June 5th: At 2am Kfir finally makes it back to Uyuni, thanks to
the generous help of the rangers at the national park. They left Laguna Colorada at 7pm
the previous night with the Transalp loaded in the back of their NP Service truck. That
morning as we were packing up and getting ready to leave for Potosi, we discover he has
arrived. There are hugs all around. Kfir works with a mechanic all morning in order to
leave for Potosi with us all. At 11am, Kfir is still with the mechanic. Mark agrees to
stay and wait for him. Chris, Annet and I take off, not knowing what to expect out of the
road. We have 208 kilometers to cover before dark. In Bolivia, that can be a very long way
indeed. After riding a good winding road up and over the mountain range behind Uyuni, we
cross a stretch of pampas. A big wind is blowing much sand in the air and across the road
we are trying to navigate. The situation was similar to sand storms we experienced in
Morocco. Surprisingly, there were few real sand dunes to navigate and we managed if fairly
easily. The rest of the ride was on good dirt road, winding through beautifully colored
rock canyons and small villages.
We finally arrive in Potosi at about 5:30pm, just before sunset. After finding a nice
little hostal with a good hot shower, we join Annet and Liam at their hostal for some
dinner. Liam arrived in Potosi some days before us, having had his own adventure crossing
the Salar by himself with only a compass and map to guide him. As they were preparing a
fabulous roast lamb dinner for us, in walks Mark and Kfir fresh off the road from Uyuni.
It was definitely cause for celebration.
Potosi is a famous mining town, once the largest city in all of South America. Potosi
has long been associated with the wealth of silver thats been extracted from its
many mines. First the indigenous Indians worked the silver mines, then came the Spanish to
exploit the rest. Nowadays low-grade silver, tin, zinc, lead, antimony and wolfram are
whats being mined.
It is the largest city of its size at this altitude (4,100 meters/13,450 Feet) in the
world. It is set on the side of the mountain, Cerro Rico (means Rich Mountain), which
provides its bread and butter. Once an extremely rich city, one can still see the many
remains of the extravagant colonial homes and municipal buildings. UNESCO has catalogued
over 2,000 colonial buildings and has declared the city to be "Patrimonio de la
Humanidad". Many locals refer to their city as being very poor, and indeed the mining
industry, which struggles to sustain it is being undercut by overseas competition and
oversupply (from Japan among others). However, the city still retains its charm and is
very well maintained.
Thursday, June 06: Annet rises early and organizes a tour of the mines for us. The cost
is about US$7.50 per person for a 4 ½ hour tour. They pick us up at 10am in a mini bus at
the hostal and we are greeted by an English-speaking guide (a nice surprise). We are taken
first to a place where we can buy cocoa leaves, cigarettes, water and pure-grain alcohol
as gifts for the miners. Next we are given gray plastic pants, red overcoats, rubber
boots, a hard-hat and headlamp with battery-pack connected to a heavy leather belt. All
geared up and ready to go, they lead us to a row of stalls on the street which sell
dynamite and all its assorted parts necessary for blasting rock in the mines. We get a
quick lesson on it all and the guys dive right in and buy several packages of the stuff.
Now the adventure really begins. The bus lets us off at the entrance to a mine (there
are over 200 mines in the mountain). There are no privately owned mines anymore, and the
mines are worked by small cooperatives of 5 or so men each. Apparently, each tour company
goes to its own mine so that there is no overlap with several groups in a mine at one
time. We later learn to appreciate how important this is for all our safety. Our guides
have us turn on our headlamps and we enter the dark hole in the side of the mountain.
Immediately the way gets smaller and smaller so that we are all hunched over and banging
our helmets on the ceiling beams and rock. Mark, the Dutchman, is 2 meters tall (6 ft. 6
in.) and has to duck most of the time we are down there.
We are led to a small room which is the mines museum. There are many bizarre
life-size figures representing the various men who worked the mines over the centuries. At
the entrance is a really strange devil figure which is the guardian of the mine and
protector of the miners. Here the guides take some cocoa leaves and sprinkle them on the
devil figure. Next they mix the grain alcohol with orange soda and ask us all to take sips
then sprinkle the drink around the base of the figure. This keeps the guardian happy I
suppose. Our guide then explains the other items in the museum as he has our rapt
attention.
The temperature in the mine went from cold to hot very quickly as we descended its
depths. The going was hard at times, having to crawl or scoot on our bottoms down rocky
shoots, slog through muddy water filled passageways, and jump out of the way of quickly
passing metal carts filled with minerals. We passed many miners during the tour, all
working harder than any of us could imagine. The carts that carry the mineral out of the
mine are not mechanized, but pushed and pulled by 3-4 men at a time. Much of the digging
is still done by hand, as dynamite is expensive for them. The average daily wage for a
miner is just US$4.50/day. As we pass groups of miners, we give them handfuls of the cocoa
leaves, cigarettes and water. Occasionally we pass a group taking a break and we give them
the alcohol. The miners work 8 straight hours without stopping for lunch. The cocoa leaves
serve to curb their appetite and give them energy to do their work. The average life
expectancy of a miner here is 45 years.
As I said, the going was quite difficult at times. The air was filled with acrid rock
dust and we had to breathe through scarves around our nose and mouth. Chris, who is
asthmatic, had his inhaler with him. Several of us had to take puffs of his inhaler as the
dust was choking. The tiny spaces, darkness and little air made for a real claustrophobic
feeling in most of us. We slid down shoots holding onto the airhose lines, climbed
ladders, and scrambled through tight rocky spaces. Near the end of the tour we had to
climb a ladder into a small crawl space where a miner was working on digging (with hammer
and chisel) holes to set dynamite. Here we contributed one of our sticks to the man. The
space was extremely small and, at this altitude and being in the mine, it took all our
strength just to descend the ladder again. The miner would set off the charge later in the
afternoon.
Having exhausted our supply of gifts, as well as our strength, we finally exited the
mine with a sense of relief. We had a new appreciation for the extreme working conditions
of these miners. Our tour concluded with a demonstration outside the mine of the
detonation of a stick of dynamite. As we waited for the fuse to ignite the dynamite, the
guys tossed rocks (successfully) at a poor dog that happened to be walking by the
detonation site. The explosion was surprisingly bigger than the one we experienced on the
tour in Uyuni. Our guides brought us back to town where we shed our miners gear and
thanked them heartily for a fantastically informative tour.